Act 2

The Primeval Swamp

The Mesolithic, Neolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age evidence of the deeper history of the North York Moors, Ryedale and the vicinity

 

Return to the Matrix

 

Those individuals who came to be the first inhabitants of Farndale who we met in Act 1 of the Farndale Story had been plucked from the primeval sludge of the hunters and earliest settlers of the Mesolithic and Neolithic, from Bronze Age Beaker Folk, Iron Age Settlers, and Brigantes people who had roamed the moors, dales and vales of northern Yorkshire since about 9,000 years BCE, most likely settling by Roman times in the cultivated lands around Kirkdale, a place of even greater antiquity, which has left us the remains of interglacial age hippopotami.

By 1066 the Farndale lands were part of a large estate of which its southern lands at the northwest edge of the Vale of Pickering, were settled for a millennium and more. Whilst it is probable that before settling in the dale itself, the Farndale ancestors were inhabitants of the stable estate lands around Kirkdale perhaps back to Roman times, we can’t be sure of our deeper ancestry. However there is a rich pre history of human settlement on and around the North York Moors and Farndale, including around the rim above Farndale itself, and this Act of our story focuses on the evidence of human activity in the immediate vicinity to the family homeland. Whilst we cannot follow the paths of individual families, it must have been from this gene pool that the later family emerged.

For thousands of years, prehistoric folk hunted, farmed and lived in communities across northern Yorkshire. They discovered how to exploit stone, then bronze and later iron. The first metal objects were made from copper, but by adding tin, they became much stronger.

 

Scene 1 – Early Human Settlement

 

Tropical Yorkshire

Nearby to the church at Kirkdale is the Kirkdale Cave discovered by workmen in 1821 and found to contain the fossilised bones of a variety of mammals no longer indigenous to Britain, including hippopotami, the farthest north any such remains have been found, elephant and hyaena[1].

The cave is only 500 metres southeast of St Gregory’s Minster[2]. The Reverend William Buckland came to understand that this was a cave into which hyaena had dragged their prey during an interglacial period, a time when the earth was warmer than it is today, and which started 130,000 ago[3]. This was before the age of humans in these parts, but a place of very deep antiquity, and the very place where our ancestors would later live, in a different era of geological time.

 

Kirkdale Cave

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A portal to the geological past from the heart of the family story

 

Exploring the Cave

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Peering through chambers to our ghostly beginnings

 

 

Human settlement

A vast epoch of time then passed before the first human settlers following the last great Ice Age entered Britain across Doggerland, the land bridge across what is now the North Sea, probably following animals such as reindeer.

Humans had visited our shores long before these early settlers[4]. Human footprints have been discovered at Happisburgh in Norfolk which date to 900,000 YBP (“Years Before Present”) when early humans visited Britain during a period of warming when Britain wasn’t an island[5]. The oldest human remains are those of a six foot specimen of Homo heidelbergensis found at Boxgrove in East Sussex which date to about 500,000 YBP[6]. The skull of a woman, 400,000 years old was discovered at Swanscombe, Kent[7]. She was probably a member of the Neanderthal line of human evolution. Large, crude flint handaxes were associated with the site. In late 2025 archaeologists identified the earliest known instance of human created fire, near the village of Barnham in eastern England, dating to 400,000 YBP[8]. Having something that could give you instant fire when you need it, where you need it, was crucial for people moving into places like Britain 400,000 years ago. It made them more adaptable, enlarged the range of environments they could survive in, and helped catalyse the evolution of social complexity, brain growth and probably even language itself[9]. This was a Neanderthal site where burnt soil was found along with fire-cracked flint handaxes and two fragments of iron pyrite, used to strike sparks with flint. The early humans in Britain all seem to have been part of this slow evolution of the Neanderthal line, well before Homo Sapiens migrated from Africa. No human remains have been found in Britain between about 180,000 to 60,000 YBP. 

 

By about 54,000 YBP, the first homo sapiens arrived in France[10].

 

In 1823, William Buckland, who had interpreted the Kirkdale Cave near Farndale in 1821, abseiled down a cliff on the Gower Peninsula in Wales to investigate a cave where it was thought that more ancient elephant bones lay[11]. He mapped the cave, including a human skeleton, which he concluded was not a prehistoric find, but the skeleton of a Roman prostitute who came to be known as the Red Lady of Paviland. In 2008, radiocarbon-dating techniques conclusively showed these bones belonged to a male, aged 25 to 30 years old, who stood about 173 cm in height, who had been buried around 33,000 years ago, when Britain was part of a larger peninsula attached to continental Europe[12]. The elephant bones were mammoth bones, perhaps dispatched by a hunting party on the tundra during which the Red Lady lost his life. It’s possible that the remains in the cave are those of an early ritual burial of a hunter who lost his life during his pursuit of prey.

 

 

The last Ice Age then froze the British Isles and made the lands uninhabitable for about 10,000 years from circa 22,000 YBP. It reached its peak about 18,000 YBP. Any nomadic hunters remaining in Britain died out as the glaciers advanced across Britain. Only a few small pockets of humans survived in southern Europe.

 

While the Ice Age still made Britain a harsh place to live, a few bands of hardy hunters did return to Britain in about 13,000 YBP. The Robin Hood Cave Horse, previously known as the Ochre Horse, is a fragment of a horse rib engraved with a horse's head, discovered in 1876, in the Robin Hood Cave in Creswell Crags, Derbyshire[13]. It is the only piece of Upper Palaeolithic portable art showing an animal to have been found in Britain. It is now in the British Museum[14]. The image was carefully prepared and depicted as alive and dynamic. These were Ice Age hunters during a brief lull in the arctic conditions.

 

The Big Freeze followed and life was extinguished again.

 

There is no evidence of human settlement in the area of northern Yorkshire before about 10,000 YBP.

 

The Geology of Farndale

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Understanding the landscape

 

The context of the Palaeolithic Period or the Old Stone Age

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A global context to the prehistory of Yorkshire

Before about 10,000 BCE

 

Then a warmer period returned again and the ice melted to flood the Vale of Pickering. Around 11,600 YBP the temperature began to rise very rapidly and the ice that had covered most of Britain began to retreat to the Arctic. As the ice melted the shape of the British Isles took shape, apart from the land bridge to the southeast, known as Doggerland[15].

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The first wave of our ancestral settlers arrived in the area of the North Yorks Moors after the last Ice Age, about 10,000 YBP. They were hunters, hunting wild animals across the moors and in the forests. Relics of this early hunting, gathering and fishing community have been found as a widespread scattering of flint tools and the barbed flint flakes used in arrows and spears.

The vicinity of The North York Moors and Ryedale in the Mesolithic Period

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The age of hunting folk in tune with the land

9,000 BCE to 3,000 BCE

 

Star Carr

The richest Mesolithic suite in Britain, a few miles south of Scarborough, on the edge of the ancient Lake Pickering, only 30 km from Farndale

 

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Since the lands to the south of the moors were flooded after the glaciers melted, significant evidence of human activity has been found on the higher moors during the Mesolithic period[16].

However there is remarkable evidence of a group of humans who settled at Star Carr, near Scarborough, in the floodlands of Lake Pickering. Star Carr was first occupied in about 9,000 BCE. There may only have been 1,000 or so people in Britain at this time. The settlers lived in tents made from animal skins which were erected on wooden platforms around the edge of a large ice-dammed lake, Lake Pickering. It is generally regarded as the most important and informative Mesolithic site in Britain. It is as important to the Mesolithic period as Stonehenge is to the Neolithic period.[17]

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To the immediate north of Farndale, Stony Rigg is a site of Mesolithic and Neolithic activity[18]. The area between the heads of Farndale and Westerdale[19] is one of the richest series of flint sites in Britain. Large collections have been made at Common Stone, near Ash House, and at Blakey Howe. Petit tranchet microliths or arrowheads, have been found at the Farndale sites. On the higher ridges after fires or forestry ploughing, patches or scatters of flint chippings come to light, often plentiful in a restricted area of a few square feet[20].

 

Raymond Hayes found 800 flints in a small area at the Three Howes[21] on Rudland Rigg to the west of Farndale. He interpreted the site as a temporary camping site in a forest clearing, probably occupied by hunters following red deer. Frank Elgee suggested arrangements of barrows on the moors sometimes reflected the shape of the Plough. He suggested there are at least nine mounds at Three Howes. These groups may owe their number to the circumstance that there are three stars in the handle of the Plough … And it may be that the numerous Three Howes either form part of larger Plough groups, the other barrows of which may have been destroyed or have not yet been observed, or possibly in some cases three barrows became symbolic of the larger group of seven. The curved groups of three more closely resemble the handle of the Plough than those which are straight. Three, like seven has ever been a mystic number; and it is therefore certain that the urb people attached a deep significance to the erection of their barrows in groups of three.[22]

 

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Three Howes from the main track, August 2025

The archaeology reveals a mix of activity from the Mesolithic through to the Bronze Age[23]. The area was likely to have been forested until the Bronze Age. There is evidence that forest had once spread across the high ground as well as through the dales[24]. Oak was predominant, with alder, hazel and birch scrub. Professor Dimbleby thought that it was early flint users who were responsible for the initial felling of this forest.

 

 

Scene 2 – Stone, Bronze and Iron

Stone

The vicinity of the North York Moors and Ryedale in the Neolithic Period, the New Stone Age

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The age of early farmers who brought early settlement, religious beliefs and new structures to Ryedale

3,000 BCE to 1,800 BCE

 

A revolutionary advance was made in the cultural development of northeast Yorkshire by around 5,000 YBP when the first Neolithic, or New Stone Age, settlers arrived from Continental Europe who probably crossed the new sea around Britain in dug out canoes. The New Stone Age was the period when tool making skills produced stone axes, flint axes, arrow heads, spear points, fired clay beakers and woven cloth[25].

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The start of stone age farming in the area of the north Yorkshire moors was in about 5,000 YBP[26]. The Neolithic Revolution involved arable farming and the domestication of animals. Neolithic society made pottery, weaved cloth and created baskets. Small village communities became settled, more reliant upon domestic animals and less on hunting. They built stone enclosures for animals.

Sheep have been kept [around] Farndale and Ryedale since Mesolithic times and perhaps earlier. Horns and skulls of a small breed of sheep have been found with beakers dated to 3,750 years ago in the fissures near Helmsley. Bulls and cows go back as far as this also. Oxen were used for fraught animals and ploughing until the 18th and 19th centuries.[27]

The development of grinding and polishing stone allowed a variety of stone as well as flint to be used. Hard boulders from local glacial deposits were useful raw material. Flint axes, some polished, were found at Peak[28], south of Robin Hood’s Bay and green stone axes were found in Seamer[29]. Seven miles east of Pickering in the centre of a round barrow were found a burnt flint knife and a round axe.

The Neolithic people buried their dead with ceremony, in chambered mounds called barrows, or in caves and in stone lined graves[30]. The organisation required to erect the large megalithic structures and the barrows suggests developed societies[31].

The majority of the large barrows and a few of the smaller run in irregular lines often with considerable distances between them. Moreover most of these lines follow the summit of ridges between the dales, and seem to lead from one group of small mounds to another many miles away.[32]

Blakey Howe is a round barrow which includes buried and earthwork remains of a burial mound, also known as Cockpit Hill, topped by an eighteenth century boundary stone. It is located eighty metres from the Lion Inn. It survives in an area which was later extensively worked for coal, an activity which has left behind several spoil heaps along the ridge. Referred to as Blakenhow in a Charter of Gisborough Priory in 1200, the round barrow sits on a natural rise on the spine of Blakey Ridge and has line of sight to other prominently located barrows in the area. Constructed of earth with some stone, it is just over twenty metres in diameter and stands two metres high with an ancient excavation hollow six metres in diameter and up to one and a half metres deep. This hollow is thought to have been later used for staging cockfights, explaining the barrow's alternative name. On the rim of this hollow, on the southern side, there is a one and a half metre high boundary stone which tapers towards its top. On its west face it is inscribed with the initials TD above four more weathered characters. This is a reference to Thomas Duncombe who owned the Duncombe Estate west of Helmsley in the early eighteenth century. It is possible that this stone is a redressed and reset prehistoric standing stone.

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Far back in the boreal period, 5,000 to 6,000 years ago, the Mesolithic flint knappers, hunting wild animals in the forest clearings, camped on the ridge close to the present inn. Just to the north stands Blake or Black Howe, a bronze age or neolithic round tumulus with a stone kerb. It has been dug into at the centre in the distant past, and the deep hollow or crater in the large mound was the scene of many a cock fight in the nineteenth century. From the Howe it is possible, on a clear day, to see York Minster.[33]

From about 2,000 BCE huge prehistoric monuments appeared in the Megalithic Period[34]. The largest standing stone in Britain is a single pillar of grindstone, 25 feet high. It dominates the churchyard at Rudstone, a few miles west of Bridlington[35]. The nearest source of stone is 10 miles north of the site.

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The Yearsley Moor long barrow[36] and round barrows on Ampleforth moor have been excavated[37] at the home of the later ancestors of the Ampleforth line of Farndales.

 

Bronze

The vicinity of the North York Moors and Ryedale in the Bronze Age

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The Beaker Folk who introduced metal working to Britain including northern Yorkshire

1,800 BCE to 700 BCE

 

The Ryedale Windy Pits

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Underground caves, only 15 km from Farndale, which were the home of the Bronze Age Beaker Folk

 

The use of bronze was probably introduced into Yorkshire by the Beaker Folk[38], who arrived in the area via the Humber Estuary in about 1,800 BCE. They came across the Wolds and crossed the Pennines. Their name is derived from their tradition to bury beaker shaped urns with their dead.

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Beaker Folk reached Malham Moor near Settle in the west Yorkshire dales and occupied sites on the Yorkshire Wolds. They cultivated wheat and there is evidence of trade. They imported flat bronze axes from Ireland and exported ornaments made of Whitby jet.

The people of the Bronze Age continued to hunt in upland areas. There have been finds of their barbed and tanged flint arrowheads. Gradually these were replaced with metal tools and weapons. There is evidence during the Bronze Age of metal working and tin mining, leather and cloth manufacturer, pottery and salt production. There was domestic trade and trade beyond the island’s shores. They traded in salt and had sea connections with Scandinavia. The population of the British Isles steadily grew to perhaps about 2 million.

Permanent settlements were built, such as at Ulrome, between Hornsea and Bridlington, where a dwelling built on wooden piles on the shore of a shallow lake has been found[39].

The Amesbury Archer in modern Wiltshire dates to about 2,000 BCE and is the earliest Beaker Folk site, associated with the first examples of metal, both copper and gold, in Britain[40]. The earliest metal implements were of copper supplied from Irish and German sources, not yet alloyed with tin. Ireland became a centre of early bronze industry and travelling bronze smiths and tinkers left traces across the north of England[41]. Copper began to arrive in Britain in Professor Hawkes’ Copper Age 1, c 1,850 to 1,750 BCE[42], contemporary with late Neolithic cultures and particularly the early Beaker cultures. However metal implements did not appear in Yorkshire in any quantity until Copper Age 2, when the copper and gold was likely to have been mostly of Irish origin. The Copper Age 2, c 1,750 to c 1,600 BCE, included thick butted axes found in East Yorkshire and the Pennines.

The Migdale industry flourished in Professor Hawkes’ Early Bronze Age 1, c 1,600 to 1,500 BCE. The industrial tradition of metal working using a true bronze of copper alloyed with tin was named after the Migdale hoard from Sutherland[43]. Migdale axes are widely distributed in Yorkshire with a concentration on the Wolds, a number in Holderness; and a scatter from the limestone hills of North-east Yorkshire, the Howardian Hills, the Vale of York.

During the next phase of the Early Bronze Age 2, c 1,500 to 1,400 BCE, the Migdale industry continued and developed its flat axe into an axe with slight flanges. During this phase the Migdale industry had a competitor for the supply of bronze implements, the Arreton Industry, named after the hoard of bronze implements from Arreton Down, Isle of Wight, but in Yorkshire the Arreton axes are not as numerous as the Migdale axes. This was the period when the Dover Boat[44] was built in Kent, dating to about 1,520 BCE, the oldest surviving sea going vessel in the world, originally about 20 metres long, a vessel that carried cargo between Britain and Continental Europe, including bronze and perhaps wool and fabrics.

The Dover Boat was deliberately dismantled and abandoned, not lost as a wreck. Bronze Age folk felt that they were only borrowing resources, so that one day they had to be returned to the earth. Similar practices have been identified with many objects such as rapiers and other weapons. By 1,500 BCE Britain was a rich, wealthy land, with the emergence of a Bronze Age elite connected to the land. Ordinary people had continued to farm the land as they had done for centuries, often with limited permanency, sometimes adopting seasonal patterns to follow the flow of resources. However with the growing elite classes, there was an increased permanency of association with the land. These communities may have been a relatively relaxed society as the population was still low. In many areas there may not have been significant violence, nor an underclass. Except at areas of flashpoint between communities, excavated skeletons tend to suggest well nourished folk living comfortable lives during the early period of the Bronze Age.

The Middle Bronze Age, 1,400 BCE to 900 BCE may, in the area of the North Yorkshire Moors, have started by 1,700 BCE[45]. Permanent dwellings led to the evolution of the first small settlements, tiny hamlets, with organised field systems around them. This was a period when people first started to live in the same house for a lifetime and sometimes alongside neighbours who they knew over a lifetime. The Dartmoor Reaves provide some of the best preserved landscapes of this period, with permanent roundhouses and field systems[46]. These were permanent places where folk spent their lifetimes, adjacent to long term neighbouring roundhouses. This was perhaps a time when marriages were arranged between local communities to cement relationships and build alliances. The population steadily grew to perhaps about 2 million.

The North York Moors might not, nowadays, seem the best place to farm, but the climate was warmer in the past and the land more fertile; there is evidence for many small field enclosures in Eskdale and Upper Ryedale, marked by rubble walls and cairns of cleared stones. Those who farmed there left their important dead in more than 200 burial mounds scattered over the area. Population increase in Bronze Age Yorkshire seems to have led to disputes over access to resources. This inevitably resulted in the increased demarcation of the land. Lines of howes across the horizon, or increased building of dykes warned neighbouring groups whose territory they were entering. Some of these dykes probably major tribal boundaries, are huge, with multiple banks.[47]

The Bronze Age was a time of changes in burial rituals[48]. Bodies continued to be buried in barrows[49], but increasingly these were circular mounds, round barrows, often accompanied by bronze artefacts. There are many barrows in upland locations on the Wolds and the Moors. Early Bronze Age burials were performed at Ferrybridge Henge near Wakefield[50]. Round barrows of the early part of the Bronze Age are the most conspicuous archaeological features of the North York Moors. The scarcity on lower ground is due mainly to agricultural activity. Those on higher ground have generally been found to contain cremations, while those on lower ground in limestone areas contained both burnt and unburnt bodies. The skeletons are most often accompanied by pottery including beakers, food vessels, collared urns and accessory cups, and flints, and sometimes by jet ornaments, stone battle axes and occasionally by bronze daggers. Collared urns and cremations have also been found with stone embanked circles such as at Great Ayton moor[51]. To the northwest of Farndale, at the northern extent of the moors, at Wainstones[52], close to Bronze Age burial mounds at Cold Moor (NZ 552018) and Cringle Moor (NZ 537029), cupstones have been found on rocks at Wainstones (NZ 558035)[53]. These are Bronze Age carved rocks on three rocks, cup and ring markings, albeit corrupted with modern graffiti.

Excavations at Gillamoor in 1975, close to Farndale, found burnt and unburnt human bones, mixed with burnt stones and clay, with scraps of Bronze Age pottery[54].

There is a Street House Long Barrow[55], later added to by an Anglo Saxon royal burial site, near Loftus, where many later Farndales lived and are buried. Excavations since 2010 have revealed over twenty examples of prehistoric rock art, dating to the Late Neolithic/Early Bronze Age; an ovoid, or oval, structure and evidence of a long history of occupation, with Neolithic structures overlaid by later Bronze Age activity.

The Ryedale Windy Pits are underground features now to be found in a woodland about 10 km west of Kirkdale and also further west near Sutton Bank[56]. They were found by our friend the Reverend William Buckland, after his Kirkdale cave fame. Human bones were found in these natural underground caves, with pottery associated with the bronze age Beaker Folk. On a cold day as the air rises through the underground labyrinths, a mist-like steam mysteriously wisps from below the ground.

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At Burton Howe, immediately northwest of the head of Farndale, the forest was still thick in the Bronze Age and parts of the present moorland were likely to have been forested. Indeed the extent of woodland was much greater than today until relatively recently. It is still within the memory of living people that the slopes of the Dales and Moors were more thickly wooded than at present, and the late Canon Atkinson relates that 30 years ago he had heard a man say “Ah heared my au’d uncle offens sat ‘at he kenned t’tahm when a cat swirrel could gan a’t’way down from Commondale End to Beggar’s Bridge wivott yance tooching t’grund”[57].

Raymond Hayes reported on flint arrowheads and an urn at Stony Rigg on Farndale slope[58]. Bronze age hoards of axes cast in bronze have been found at Keldholme and Gillamoor[59]. There are barrows on the high ground above Farndale to the west on Rudland Rigg and to the east on Blakey Ridge. There was substantial Bronze Age activity on the high ground all around the dale, with lines of barrows along the ridgelines. No doubt individuals from the Bronze Age strayed down into the forested Farndale itself in search of game, but there is no evidence of settlement there. 

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Grain Rubbing querns were used from very early times, and are still in use today in Africa and South America to grind wild seeds; mortars were also used and a stone found recently on Battersby Moor may be one of these. In Britain the saddle-type grain-rubber was in use by Neolithic times (at Ehenside Tarn in the Lake District by 3000 BC, and examples also found in megalithic tomb). The earliest evidence we have from Ryedale is part of a heavy, highly-polished stone from Lingmoor, on the limestone hills, two miles south east of Hutton-le-Hole. It has a cuplike hollow, cut in it after it was disused for grinding. This was very near a group of similar cup-marked stones, found associated with a stone axe-hammer and mid Bronze Age cremations, possibly about 1400 BC, in date, and reused as a votive offering for burials.[60]

Bronze Age sites around Farndale are focused on the higher surrounding ground of Horn Ridge[61], Stony Ridge and Burton How, Rudland Ridge, Blakey Ridge and the lower southern approach to the dale at Harland Moor. The high ridge known as Horn Nab or Horn Rigg juts into Farndale from the western escarpment of Rudland Rigg. In doing so it separates the valley of the West Gill from the main dale. The earthworks atop Horn Ridge include a cross dyke, a bank and ditch that crosses the spine of the ridge, an area of clearance cairns forming a cairnfield, a funerary round cairn, and at least two hut circles[62].

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The Horn Ridge Tumulus, August 2025

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Two round cairns at Obtrusch Cairn (“Hobthrush”) are also found on Rudland Rigg overlooking Farndale, and another cairn at Dickon Howe on the track between Horn Nab and the main route across Rudland Rigg[63]. Another remarkable cist burial of this age occurred in a large round barrow known as Obtrush Rook on Rudland Moor between Farndale and Rosedale, excavated long ago by John Phillips, the great pioneer Yorkshire geologist. At the centre of this barrow, and on the natural surface, was a short stone cist devoid of bones, flint or pottery … In describing the burial places of the food vessel people we noticed that many internments were enclosed in stone circles under barrows, a striking instance being the double circle round the cist in Obtrush Rook on Farndale Moors. These circles may have represented huts within which could dwell the spirits of the dead. Or they may have been magic boundaries beyond which the spirits could not pass and within which they must for ever be confined. There can be little doubt that these circles were derived from the stones with which Neolithic man often surrounded his long barrows and circular chambered cairns. They have not been found in the homelands of the Early Bronze Age invaders, who therefore must have adopted them as they adopted the food vessel and cremation[64].

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A stone circle and cairn field with a field system is close to the road on Harland Moor on the southern approach to Farndale[65]. Besides the kerbs or circles of stone covered by cairns or tumuli, embanked or free standing circles are found more rarely. One of the best examples was noticed by Mr R W Crosland of Hutton le Hole on Harland moor, west of the quarry at Cross Top. It contains about eighteen stones set in a slight bank six to eight feet wide and one and one half to two feet high. Some have fallen and the tallest is about four feet in height. These circles were both ceremonial or burial. Cremated bones and urns have been found inside them. The Farndale circle is just over 70 feet in diameter; turf roads cut across it and old ironstone bell pits have disturbed part of the interior. Smaller circles which might be the outline of huts lie on the moor to the south near Harland Beck Farm. Many flint implements have been found in the locality. Just west of the circle is a group of small cairns, burial places of the late bronze or early iron gage. Many have been removed for walling stones or roads, but very little evidence of their purpose has been found in the small cairns apart from signs of cremation in a few. Low banks of stone walling connected with them are thought to be the remains of cultivation plots of small fields.[66]

Forests were cleared at such a rate that around 1,000 BC Iron Age Britain was not, as was once romantically imagined, an unbroken forest kingdom stretching from Cornwall to Inverness but rather a patchwork of open fields, worked with rudimentary ploughs to harvest beans and grains, dotted here and there with woodland copses giving cover for game, especially wild pigs, and intensively worked to stoke forges and supply timbers for the building of the circular huts and houses in which most of the population lived.[67]

The Late Bronze Age, c 900 to 700 CE, was a period of migration and of nomadic people moving over Europe. A hoard of eight axes and a bronze bell and hammer were found at Keldholme Priory; a fine hooped spearhead was found at Helmsley and a looped palstave or axe head and socketed axe at Kirkbymoorside[68]. At the east end of the Howardian Hills, near Welburn, a late Bronze Age cinerary urn designed to hold cremated ashes was found[69].

Bronze Age farmers were growing crops like oats and rye and keeping sheep in enclosures. There was a warm, favourable climate during the Bronze Age, allowing expansion across new lands.

The Salcombe Wreck was a vessel which sank off the Devon coast laden with copper and tin ingots mined across southern Europe in about 1,000 BCE evidencing the extent of international metal trading in the Late Bronze Age[70]. The exchange of bronze had become an important source of wealth. The Llyn Fawr Hoard from Glamorgan, c 750 CE, reveals the scale of trade in bronze by the Late Bronze Age, fuelled by demand from a high class elite, who couldn’t get enough of it[71]. Britain was known as the Tin Islands, with a rich resource in tin from Cornwall, and also in sources of copper, by now mined at scale as at the Great Orme Copper Mine in North Wales from 2,000 to 600 BCE[72]. The boom in exchange of bronze objects started to spin out of control[73]. The impact over time started to reach and be repeated to the north. The production of bronze started to surpass any practical purpose, since there were only so many axes that people might need. Bronze had become a unit of exchange which had fuelled the scale of mining at places such as Great Orme. It had become a proto-currency, divorced from its practical use.

By 800 BCE Britain was heading for economic meltdown. Bronze began to be dumped as evidenced by the Langton Matravers Bronze Axe Hoard from Dorset, c 750 BCE, of nearly 400 socketed bronze axes that were mostly unused but buried in the ground[74]. The Llyn Fawr Hoard also included a new material, which included sickles made of iron, the earliest iron objects in Britain.

 

Iron

Iron was not as beautiful as bronze, but it was stronger and kept its edge better, which was ideal for weapons[75].

The vicinity of the North York Moors and Ryedale in the Iron Age

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The Celtic Brigantes folk who formed proto kingdoms

700 BCE to 70 CE

 

Roulston Scar

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A massive Iron Age promontory Hill Fort only 20 km from Farndale

 

The ancient routes across the moors

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Exploring the ancient tracks and roads across the moors around Farndale

 

Ironwork had first appeared in the eastern Mediterranean around 1,200 BCE. By 800 BCE it started to be used by an elite class in central Europe. The introduction of iron seems to have triggered a late Bronze Age crisis, with a period of economic stagnation for about 200 years, also associated with a period of sudden and severe climate change. This was the period of a colder and wetter Britain. The Bronze Age people in Britain, such as the Beaker Folk were influenced by Celtic speaking incomers who had moved north from the Mediterranean via northern Gaul. Britain’s population fell during this time, perhaps for the first time since the Ice Age. This was a period of social turmoil which reshaped British society. The European Iron Age was a period of upheaval when technology and societies were changed forever[76].

The climate began to improve from 600 BCE and different regions of Britain started to develop in different ways, leading to greater regional diversity. This was the period of massive stone towers, brochs, such as the Broch of Gurness on Orkney (400 BCE) in the far north of Scotland[77], which may have stood 10 metres high. These were defensive structures. The Crannog[78] was another Celtic structure for defence, built on stilts into the lochside. In mainland Britain farming communities were creating hill forts as alternative defensive features, such as at Roulston Scar, which dates back to around 400 CE. The site covers 60 acres, defended by a perimeter 1.3 miles long. It is the largest Iron Age fort of its kind in the north of England. The massive promontory hill fort of Roulston Scar at Sutton Bank, a limestone cliff which overlooks the Vale of York, between Helmsley and Thirsk, is about 20 kilometres to the west of Kirkbymoorside and Farndale.

By about 500 BCE there was more stability. It was at this time that iron first appeared in quantity[79]. This was a period of impressive technological innovation, illustrated by the Fiskerton tools in Lincolnshire, c 400 BCE[80]. Iron could be hammered into multiple different forms and, unlike the specialist skill of bronze working, was no longer the preserve of the elite. Iron could be worked by ordinary folk. It soon became central to village life. It is more elastic and versatile and could easily be reworked if broken or misshaped. It was harder wearing. The ore was easy to find and did not depend on a complex trade network. It also provided the material for heavier ploughs with an iron tip that could withstand heavy soils.

This led to rapid population increases and to new power structures. Tribal leaders started to see themselves as rulers of proto kingdoms.

Long periods of peace were interspersed with sudden outbreaks of violence often triggered by minor squabbles. The outcome was sometimes very violent warfare. Weapons and skeletons from Danebury[81] reveal the violence. Violence must have been a constant experience of life, with injured young men living in communities, perhaps dreading the time when they would next be called to defend their settlements. These were no longer peaceful, cooperative societies.

Horses, previously uncommon, started to be domesticated and used in battle, with early evidence of horse riding. This allowed raiding at distance. Horses gave significant military advantage.

Aerial photography has revealed that much more of Yorkshire was farmed in the Iron Age than appears on the ground. Extensive hut circles, field boundaries and ladder settlements, where houses and fields are connected together in straight lines like ladders, can be seen as crop marks in many places. The Wolds were, it seems, once again more heavily populated than the rest of Yorkshire. Early ploughs could cope better with the light Wold soils than the heavier clays of the Vale of York. New land was brought into cultivation as the population increased, and the system of Bronze Age dykes was greatly extended as land was divided more and more.[82]

The theory of a Celtic migration and conquest is probably too simplistic[83]. A sophisticated culture of warriors, druid priests[84] and artists evolved across Britian, both importing and exporting ideas across trade zones, an indigenous culture in contact with, rather than conquered or settled by, peoples from Continental Europe. Iron Age Britain evolved on sites which had been occupied for thousands of years.

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The Kirkburn Sword, East Yorkshire, British Museum

A pinnacle of the new Celtic art is the Kirkburn sword[85] from East Yorkshire, c 300 BCE. It is a composite item assembled from 70 separate pieces, including iron, bronze and horn, into an exquisite item. It was used in battle and repaired on one or more occasions.  The Kirkburn Warrior is the skeleton of a man in his late 20s to early 30s[86]. He was placed in the grave in a crouched position with his knees pulled towards his chest. Three spears were thrust into his body after he was buried, to mark his martial prowess, with the shafts jutting out of the ground as a visible marker.

By 300 BCE Britain was a place of Celtic warriors and horsemen[87]. This was a new Celtic Age. The Wetwang Slack Iron Age Cemetery, c 300 BCE, about ten miles from Kirkburn, comprises multiple small barrows each of which is a grave[88]. Though unique to East and North Yorkshire, this form of burial is also found in the Marne region of France, suggesting contact with the Continent. The Wetwang Woman[89] suggests the important role of women in Celtic society in Yorkshire at this time. She died perhaps in her late 40s, but with teeth in a good condition suggesting a privileged diet. She was buried lying in a chariot along with horse driving artefacts. Amongst the artefacts was an object like a mirror, but which would have been blurred and may have been an object used to peer into a different blurred world of ancestors, to communicate with the dead. She was a woman of importance, who may have been a priestess.

In 1880 a leaf shaped bronze sword, with a broken handle, was found on Soldier Plain between Harome and Wombleton[90].

The Celtic people of north eastern England included the Brigantes. They were skilled horsemen. They went into battle with iron wheeled, horse drawn chariots, and attacked their enemy with swords and spears. The Brigantes were an organised society, with a hierarchy of military rulers. The mobility provided from their horsemanship enabled them to control lager areas. Their farmsteads were made up of groups of small square or rectangular fields and were often enclosed by low walls of gravel or stones. Their huts were made of branches, or wattle and stood on low foundations of stone.

A thatched roof house in the woods

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                                                                                                         Reconstructed Iron Age round house at the Ryedale Folk Museum

There are outlines of other Celtic settlements near Grassington[91] and Malham[92]. The most impressive Iron Age remains are at Stanwick[93], north of Richmond where pottery has been found across a large area which had originated on the continent.

There is evidence that the aristocracy lived in rectangular enclosures often about 60 by 80 metres with two metre wide defensive ditches for further protection. Farms may have worked about 250 acres and the fields around the farms grew cereals and hay for winter feed. The non aristocratic folk would have worked the land in the enclosure farms for their masters.

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Iron furnace remains and slag from smelting have been found. Iron ore may have been mined in Rosedale. Those living closer to the sea may have picked up food from the beaches.

Costa Beck[94] is a small river near Pickering. Excavations from the 1920s revealed Iron Age lakeside settlements through the Vale of Pickering. Animal bones, pottery sherds and a human skull have been excavated[95]. There are several sites in the Pickering Vale, including at West Heslerton[96] where there were small enclosures for stock breeding and growing crops in the wetlands around the once Lake Pickering.

The last inhabitants of northern Britain before the arrival of the Romans were illiterate, but left their mark in the place names of Yorkshire. Many Yorkshire rivers carry Celtic names including the Aire, Calder, Don, Nidd, and Wharfe.

The name Brigantes occurs in other places, and I cannot help thinking that when its true history is found, it may prove to have been no tribal name, but rather a nickname adopted and used by a local confederacy, that was taken up, crystallised, and extended by the Romans. Indeed, various hints in the story of Cartimanua seemed to show that she and her husband Venutius ruled over rather different branches of the same tribe and had by no means the same interests. If this were so, it would explain the great size of the Brigantian territory. We know that the local confederacy did not always act together. There was an anti Roman party before the adventure of Caratacus. The inspiration of their patriotism came not so much from that persistent agitator as from their own obstinate, acquisitive temper.[97]

The Brigantes[98] were not the only Celtic people to occupy northeast Yorkshire. In Holderness and the Wolds area, were a folk known as the Parisii who came from France and Belgium. The main Parisii[99] settlement was probably close to Brough near Hull.

Several large fortifications witness the efforts of the Brigantes in their encounters with the Romans.

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The birth of a nation

In 320 BCE, the Greek explorer, Pytheas of Messalia[100] sailed around Britain[101] and called it Pretannike, probably from the Celtic word for tatooed, and which evolved to Britannia over time. The larger island of the British Isles came to be called Alba or Albion and the western island, modern Ireland, was Ivernia or Hibernia.

Centuries later in the History of the Kings of Britain[102] by Geoffrey of Monmouth, a story emerged that the Trojan Brutus had landed in Albion finding only giants and named the land Brutaigne.

The first ideas of a nation were beginning to emerge.

 

The lands of Kirkdale

There is archaeological evidence of settlement across the Vale of Pickering in the period before the arrival of the Romans. This included farms, many within ditched enclosures, surrounded by small fields. The vicinity of Kirkdale was a rural area, with dispersed settlements. The hill adjacent to the later Roman villa of Beadlam was a place of deep antiquity. Concentrations of flints and nearby barrows evidence earlier Neolithic and Bronze Age use of the site. Beadlam lay within the region formerly controlled by the kingdom of the Brigantes. During the Iron Age an unenclosed settlement with roundhouses emerged on the hilltop, within a large polygonal enclosure. Trackways and enclosures were established by the first century CE, shaping the landscape and evidence suggests metalworking, with pottery linked to regional smiths, and cereal farming was occurring.

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The ancient hill to the north of Beadlam Roman Villa, 2025

There was contact between these settlements by north to south routes through the valleys on the sides of the moors and east to west through the Vale of Pickering.

 

 

Go Straight to Act 3 – Roman Kirkdale

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Return to the Matrix

 

 



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