The Geology of Farndale

 

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BCE - Before the common or current era. The contemporary equivalent of BC.

CE -  Common or current era. The contemporary equivalent of AD.

kya – abbreviation for a thousand years.

YBP – Years before present.

OD – Ordnance Datum, the zero point for calculating vertical elevation, in Britain based on the mean sea level measured at Newlyn in Cornwall between 1915 and 1921.

 

 

A traveller in the mid twelfth century who looked down from the moorland on Blakey Ridge into the wilderness that would soon become known as Farndale would have seen the canopy of an expanse of forest that filled the valley and continued southward to the edge of the Vale of Pickering. This was frontier country at the edge of civilisation. Human encounters with the dale over eons of time were observations made from above the dale and not the experience of folk who lived there.

 

Yet the immediate vicinity of the dale has a rich prehistory.

 

 

The geological landscape of Ryedale and the Vale of Pickering

 

The range of lower hills, uplands and dales to the north of Ryedale were shaped by Ice Age glaciers and stretch to the North York Moors, known also as Blackamoor, taking its name from the peat soil.

 

To the west the limestone heathland of the higher Pennines drops to marshy peat and shale.

 

To the south are the Wolds, an arc of chalk hills, once a shallow sea, a softer land, rounded by the Ice Ages.

 

Further south the area around the Humber was always boggy land.

 

Ryedale lies at the edge of the Vale of Pickering, linked to the larger Vale of York and the Vale of Mowbray, enriched with the silt of the Rivers Nidd, Ouse and Derwent.

 

During the later Glacial Period in various hilly districts of Britain, systems of lakes were impounded in the valleys by barriers of morainic deposits and by the wall-like edges of the ice sheets. Such a phenomenon occurred on a large scale in northeast Yorkshire. And the largest of these glacial lakes was that which occupied the extensive Vale of Pickering. This lake is estimated to have filled to a level of about 250 feet OD before overflowing on its southern margin at a point now marked by the Kirkham Gorge. The Kirkdale Cave is about 175 feet OD and would therefore be subject to flooding by the rising waters of Lake Pickering. A lake of this nature, largely fed by glacial melt waters, which are normally charged with fine mud, is the probable source of mud found within the cave. It is the generally accepted view that Lake Pickering is to be associated with the last (Würm) Glaciation. The faunal remains from Kirkdale are therefore probably of the Last Interglacial and Last Glaciation date. (The Animal Remains from Kirkdale Cave, J G Rutter, reproduced in A History of Helmsley Rievaulx and District, editor, J McDonnell, 1963, page 5).

 

 

The Geology of Farndale

 

Farndale is a typical northeast dale or valley, about nine miles in length and two miles in width in its middle reaches. There are several dales radiating from the Jurassic tableland of the Cleveland moors. (Raymond Hayes, Farndale, 1961, unpublished, page 1).

 

 

Farndale from Middle Head, August 2025

 

There are a series of southern dales running north to south: Ryedale, Bilsdale, Bransdale, Farndale, and Rosedale. The dales which run northwards from the moors are Baysdale, Westerdale, Danbydale, Great Fryup Dale, Glaisdale, and Egton Grange. Eskdale runs along the west to east flowing River Esk which is fed from the moors and continues to its mouth at Whitby. The source of the River Esk is on Westerdale Moor.

 

A glance at the map shows that the moors are by no means continuous within these natural bounds, but are broken up into larger and smaller areas separated from one another by deep valleys, the dales. The dales south of the central watershed are much longer and larger than those to the north, and taking them from west to east they are Ryedale, Bilsdale, Bransdale, Farndale, Rosedale and Newton Dale. Those falling towards the valley of the Esk are Baysdale, Westerdale, Danby Dale, Great and Little Fryup Dales, Glaisdale, Egton Grange, Goathland Dale and Iburndale. (The Moorlands of North Eastern Yorkshire, Frank Elgee FGS, 1912, page 4).

 

Farndale's geology is defined by its plateau landscape, formed from erosion of colitic sandstone and other Mesozoic sandstone and shale drifts, rather than glacial action.

 

The central plateau of the moors reaches 454 metres at Round Hill northwest of Farndale head and 433 metres at Stony Ridge, immediately north of Farndale. This is a bleak, eroded plateau on the colitic sandstone between the heads of Farndale and Westerdale (Raymond Hayes, Farndale, 1961, unpublished, page 1).

 

Colite or oolitic sandstone is a type of sedimentary rock characterized by small, spherical grains called ooids.

 

The dales are not the result of glacial action as the ice barrier was not high enough. They are rather the result of gradual erosion by weathering and water action. The ice was held in check by the Cleveland hills and its action scoured the area which formed the great Lake Pickering, but never flowed over the dales.

 

There is an In Our Time podcast, The Ice Ages.

 

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Upper Farndale from the eastern Blakey Ridge, 2025                                                                                                                                           Farndale from the northern ridge on Farndale Moor

 

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The path of the old ironstone railway from Rosedale along the north ridge above Farndale, part of the coast to coast path

 

The River Dove which flows through Farndale rises as twin streams emerging from the bedrock beyond Middle Head, the northern ridge of the dale. One tributary rises on Stony Ridge.

 

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River Dove flowing from its source on Stony Ridge                                                                  River Dove flowing down from Middle Head into Farndale

 

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Middle Head from Dale Head with Rudland Ridge in the background                                        Rudland Rigg looking across High Farndale from Dale Head

 

 

At Low Mill, the River Dove is joined by a stream, the West Gill, which runs down from a branch dale. This small adjoining dale is divided from the main dale by Horn Ridge or Horn Nab, which juts into the dale at a height of 350 metres.

 

From Low Mill southwards the dale gradually narrows until at Birch Hagg (Wood) it is only a few hundred metres wide. The eastern slope at this point is a remnant of the ancient forest with almost impenetrable swampy undergrowth. Numerous springs of good drinking water and also ironstone springs of medicinal value rise on the slopes of the dale (Raymond Hayes, Farndale, 1961, unpublished, page 2).

 

The Duffin Stone

 

The Duffin Stone is a massive boulder that has tumbled down into the edge of Farndale from the escarpment of Rudland Rigg. It is in fact one of a number of very large boulders in a field at the edge of the escarpment. There is no suggestion that it was a Neolithic site, but the field must be of ancient origin, and likely to have been a focal point for folk for millennia.

 

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Travel to the Palaeolithic Period.